My Mugen MBX7r ECO Build Tips
Setup:
Stick with the book setup unless you have a solid setup from the local track. Lots of people want to use Adam Drakes (or any other pro’s) setup. Unless you drive like him, on the same track as him, with the same tires as him, you are chasing a unicorn. He is fast, his setup reflects his style and speed at a certain track. I believe that the best starting point is the box stock setup. Make changes from there to suit your track and skill level.
Loctite
Follow directions and locktite all metal to metal screws. The screws from the bottom of the chassis to the motor mount and steering posts are ultra-important to secure. The only exception that I have are the 2 screws from the “Front Steering Plate” to the top of the “Steering Posts”. I avoid Loctite there and just keep a watchful eye on them. I have seen and had issues with removing those screws when locktited into place. Screw gets stripped and you end up having to replace the post itself.
Front Arms
Even when new the hinge pin holes in the front arms do not align well. To cure this, go buy a 5/32" (4mm) chainsaw file. It fits perfect and cleans out just enough material for them to move without restriction.
Body
The stock body is good, but can use some help. After painting, use shoe goo on the bottom towards the back where the has a sharp crease. It is about 4" long, runs front to back, and on both sides of the inside body. Use a little up front where the flat area for the body mount transitions to the front side panels. Use Gorilla duct tape on the sides and where the body posts will pass through. 1 layer is enough. Make the rear body post hole slightly longer (front to back) to give more room for chassis flex.
Replacement Parts:
I had 13 races and a couple practice days last year on my stock kit. Nothing broke Historically Mugen has had front arm issues. They seem a thing in the past, but I keep a set anyway.
Screw kit (NOT STAINLESS STEEL, Stainless is too soft. Regular steel screw kit is fine)
Front Lower Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Front Upper Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Rear Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Steering Rod Ends (wear item)
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Bearing Kit
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Recommended Optional Parts:
Mugen Seiki CENTRAL UNIVERSAL JOINTS: X7R/E E2228 & E2229
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Mugen Seiki MBX7 Aluminum Servo Saver Arm, OPTIONAL E2310
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Storage:
While your car is in storage, remove the shocks from the tower. It will help to keep the shocks from pressing on the arms and warping them. Tip is credited to Darren Hill - RC Racer
Stick with the book setup unless you have a solid setup from the local track. Lots of people want to use Adam Drakes (or any other pro’s) setup. Unless you drive like him, on the same track as him, with the same tires as him, you are chasing a unicorn. He is fast, his setup reflects his style and speed at a certain track. I believe that the best starting point is the box stock setup. Make changes from there to suit your track and skill level.
Loctite
Follow directions and locktite all metal to metal screws. The screws from the bottom of the chassis to the motor mount and steering posts are ultra-important to secure. The only exception that I have are the 2 screws from the “Front Steering Plate” to the top of the “Steering Posts”. I avoid Loctite there and just keep a watchful eye on them. I have seen and had issues with removing those screws when locktited into place. Screw gets stripped and you end up having to replace the post itself.
Front Arms
Even when new the hinge pin holes in the front arms do not align well. To cure this, go buy a 5/32" (4mm) chainsaw file. It fits perfect and cleans out just enough material for them to move without restriction.
Body
The stock body is good, but can use some help. After painting, use shoe goo on the bottom towards the back where the has a sharp crease. It is about 4" long, runs front to back, and on both sides of the inside body. Use a little up front where the flat area for the body mount transitions to the front side panels. Use Gorilla duct tape on the sides and where the body posts will pass through. 1 layer is enough. Make the rear body post hole slightly longer (front to back) to give more room for chassis flex.
Replacement Parts:
I had 13 races and a couple practice days last year on my stock kit. Nothing broke Historically Mugen has had front arm issues. They seem a thing in the past, but I keep a set anyway.
Screw kit (NOT STAINLESS STEEL, Stainless is too soft. Regular steel screw kit is fine)
Front Lower Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Front Upper Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Rear Arms
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Steering Rod Ends (wear item)
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Bearing Kit
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Recommended Optional Parts:
Mugen Seiki CENTRAL UNIVERSAL JOINTS: X7R/E E2228 & E2229
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Mugen Seiki MBX7 Aluminum Servo Saver Arm, OPTIONAL E2310
http://www.factoryrchobbies.com/shop/index.php…
Storage:
While your car is in storage, remove the shocks from the tower. It will help to keep the shocks from pressing on the arms and warping them. Tip is credited to Darren Hill - RC Racer